Yale P-YCJDC Concealed Door Closer Electro Brass Finish 50Kg
261 ratings
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Price: £12.95
Brand: Yale
Description: The Yale PYCJDC concealed door closer fits into the hinge side of the door, providing automatic closure of light - medium weight internal doors weighing up to 50kg. This door closer is suitable for left and right hand fitting and supplied with all fixings, the closer has been included in successful fire test to BS EN 1634-1 and is suitable for 1/2 hour fire doors. Finish: Electro Brassed. 2 year guarantee. Additional Information: Type: Concealed Door Closer Finish: Electro Brassed. Yale P-YCJDC Concealed Door Closer Electro Brass Finish 50Kg - shop the best deal online on diy-compared.co.uk
Category: Home Security
Merchant: Tooled Up
Product ID: 406250
Delivery cost: 4.95
EAN: 5010609183788
MPN: P-YCJDC-EB
RRP: 15.78
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Author: W. Taylor-maynard
Rating: 5
Review: As previous reviews have stated, this device is excellent but the fitting is very difficult so be warned. An alternative that I have installed on other doors is the "Reilor C10 Gibcloser Auto Door Closer" which only requires x5 screws and took a few minutes to install so it depends on your DIY skills and requirements. My advice is to fully fit the main cylinder to the door by drilling a 22mm hole (as mentioned by Sam). The recess can be chiselled out by first fitting the device and cutting around the rectangular plate to a depth of around 3mm with a Stanley knife, this creates a clean recess for the plate. Adjust the device for the required tension in the chain by rotating the plate, anti-clockwise reduces the tension. I advise adjusting the tension at this point as you can see the device unscrewing at the other end, for which there is no end stop. As others have found, if you go too far the device will fall apart. It's also worth mentioning that I have a 3 year old so wasn't sure what the lowest tension would be, but I can affirm that it is fine and that the door doesn't slam shut but just draws to. Once the cyclinder is fitted the door can be closed to create an indentation in the door frame for attaching the chain retaining plate later on. Now for the bit that everyone has problems with, you will need something metal that will fit through the links to stop the chain from returning, I just used a small allen key but nail or similar is fine (as others have mentioned); in fact probably better as it won't bend your allen key. I preferred putting something through the chain as oppossed to using the supplied plate as it was less likely to fall out, and believe me, you wouldn't want your fingers near it if it goes! Attach mole grips to the metal bar at the end of the chain, pull it out as far as it can go and insert your nail. I had to hold the fat end of the mole grips and put my knee up against the door in order to apply enough force. As previously stated, this isn't easy and I do lift a few weights. Now all you have to do is cut out the recess in the door frame and attach the retaining plate. Voila! I hope his description helps as it really is worth the effort for this excellent, quiet concealed device!
Author: ptr
Rating: 2
Review: I’m pretty sure the person who designed this never fitted it to a door, and the person who wrote the instructions never even held one in their hand. Let’s start off with the required tools. Instructions say a 26mm flat bit, which is a non-standard bit and most people will have to buy it specially. Don’t bother. It’s too big. A 25mm bit - which is standard in flat bit sets will work just fine, in fact you could go smaller. Next up is withdrawing the chain to fit the anchor plate. The instructions say “Turn the anchor plate 90 degrees to the cylinder face plate. Withdraw approximately 38mm and insert the retainer...” which makes it sound like you just twist and pull. Nah, you don’t. The tension is pretty huge, so you’re going to have to grab with something strong, like a vise grips, and pull hard. Then you’re supposed to insert the flimsy retainer. It will buckle, and I wouldn’t trust my fingers with it. Use the claw hammer/Allen key method another reviewer described. Then there’s the screws, which appear to be made of some kind of shiny cheese. The heads will strip with moderate use of a hand screw driver (see photo) - don’t even think about using a power driver or drill. This is a problem, because you can’t tell what the tension should be before you fit the whole thing and try it out, and you can’t set the tension when fitted, meaning you will have to fit, remove, adjust and refit. The cheese screws won’t survive even the first fitting, so chuck em’ out at the beginning and use your own proper screws that are made of metal. Be careful adjusting the tension. If you loosen it too much, the whole thing comes apart, and you’ll have to undo the whole lot to get it seated again - and risk losing the barrel of the closer inside your door if it’s a hollow door. Got it all fitted, and it works in that it closes the door, but there’s an annoying clink noise off it. I bought this one as a trial on my utility room door, thinking of it worked, I’d get more for other ones. I’m not going to bother. Only saving grace is that it was cheap.
